“The success of S5000 in its first year proved to the Motorsport Australia Board that it is worthy of this significant honour, that has a rich history dating back to 1957. “The success of S5000 in its first year proved to the Motorsport Australia Board that it is worthy of this significant honour, that has a rich history dating back to 1957. If the Product has had its serial number or dating defaced, altered or removed. ANY SYSTEM SOFTWARE (WHETHER FACTORY LOADED ON THE PRODUCT OR CONTAINED ON THE SOFTWARE DISKETTES OR CD-ROMS ENCLOSED WITH, OR ACCOMPANYING, THE PRODUCT), AND ANY UTILITY SOFTWARE, DISTRIBUTED WITH OR FOR THE PRODUCT, IS SOLD 'AS IS' AND WITHOUT WARRANTY BY CANON USA. “The success of S5000 in its first year proved to the Motorsport Australia board that it is worthy of this significant honour, that has a rich history dating back to 1957. “The Gold Star is one of the highest honours for any driver to win here in Australia, and when you look at the calibre of names that have won in the past, there is no ... “The success of S5000 in its first year proved to the Motorsport Australia board that it is worthy of this significant honour, that has a rich history dating back to 1957. “The success of S5000 in its first year proved to the Motorsport Australia board that it is worthy of this significant honour, that has a rich history dating back to 1957. “The Gold Star is one of the highest honours for any driver to win here in Australia, and when you look at the calibre of names that have won in the past, there is no ... “We are immensely proud to reinstate the Motorsport Australia Gold Star to the S5000 Championship as our premier open-wheel category,” Papadopoulos said. “The success of the S5000 Championship in its first year proved to the Motorsport Australia Board that it is worthy of this significant honour, that has a rich history dating back to 1957.
Welcome to Samurai Day!
Though Samurai Jeans produces excellent denim jackets, flannels, loopwheeled t-shirts, and many other clothing and non-clothing items, the scope of this installment of Samurai Day is limited to their jeans. In addition, I’m focusing on cuts and models that have been offered over the past 3-5 years. (I’m purposely omitting the 20th anniversary releases because there was a lot of it, and they’re picked over and essentially no longer available. If you’re interested in that, see Samurai’s 2018 catalogs.) You’ll also note that I describe some items in great detail and others in little detail. That’s most likely because I know little about the latter. Also, I’m a Samurai fan, but not an expert in the brand. If anything I’ve stated below is inaccurate or you’d like to me add something, please don’t hesitate to message me.
Samurai Jeans was founded in 1997 in Nishinomiya, Japan by Toru Nogami. He began his brand near the height of the reproduction craze, but he was (thankfully) not interested in strict Levi’s reproduction. Instead, Nogami-san immediately began pushing the limits of thread weight. His first jeans, the 15 oz S0510XX, were ridiculed by some in the industry, as that weight was essentially unheard of at the time. Ignoring the haters, Nogami built one of the most respected brands in Japanese denim and, along with the folks at Iron Heart, pioneered the field of heavyweight denim.
Samurai is known for its fast-fading, relatively rough, short-fiber heavyweight denim, though they still regularly produce jeans in the 15-17 oz range and not all of their denim is rough in texture. The brand is equally well-known for its flashy Japanese iconography. The patches of its flagship models feature depictions of the famous 1619 battle between samurai warriors Miyamoto Musashi and Sasaki Kojiro on the island of Miyajima (Mushashi won decisively). The samurai motif is further highlighted in the use of a silver thread in the selvedge ID, representing the blade of the samurai sword. Samurai’s jeans are “200% customized”, as Indigoshimp once said, and the buttons, rivets, and pocket bags are chock full of Japanese iconography. The flat inner portion of the rivets contain a Japanese phrase that references “the impermanence of all things” (i.e., jeans fade). The arcs of most of their jeans represent a seagull in flight, presumably reflecting the dominant avifauna of the brand’s current location, the coastal city of Osaka.
Because of this, Samurai has developed a reputation for being rather “loud.” This is true in one sense, but it’s also important to keep in mind that, of these details, only the gull arcs are visible when one wears the jeans with a belt. Samurai’s mainline jeans are vintage-inspired and, when worn, basically look like a pair of Levi’s with eccentric arcs. On the other hand, Samurai’s limited edition offerings can be much more outwardly flashy: colored wefts, colored arcs and seams, etc. Still, they’re less “out there” than many of Studio D’Artisan’s limited-edition jeans and way less crazy than some of Evisu’s painted-on jeans. Personally, I really love what Samurai does. I don’t have a drop of Japanese blood and have never even been to Japan, yet I find Samurai’s excessive, in-your-face Japanese iconography incredibly cool. It’s difficult for me to articulate why. What I can say for sure is that the more tangible aspects of their jeans – denim quality, fading properties, customization, and cuts – are among the best.
There are many, and it can get a little confusing.
S0510: The OG cut, first released in 1998. High rise and a relatively straight leg.
S0500: Released in 2006. This is said to be a slim straight cut, but it’s a little roomier than modern slim straights. Mid/high rise.
S0511: A relatively new cut, released in 2016. Mid-rise, snug top block, and more leg taper than most of their other cuts at the time.
(Note that the aforementioned S05xx designations refer to 15 oz denim. The following S5xx designations are used for 17 oz and heavier denim.)
S510: Refers to the heavier jeans in the S0510 cuts, usually in 19 or 21 oz.
S511: Refers to the heavier jeans in the S0511 cuts, typically offered in 19 oz.
S710: This is a tapered cut with a mid- or mid/high rise. It’s a little looser in the top block and thigh than the S511 cut and has slightly less taper. This is the most popular Samurai cut outside of Japan.
S711: This is a more modern slim straight cut with a low rise and relatively snug top block. Typically offered in 17 and 21 oz weights.
S712: Samurai’s literature says it’s based on the S710 cut and is a little roomier than the S511.
S713: This is a very slim tapered cut with a similar top block to the S711. For folks with skinny thighs and smaller rears.
S3000: Samurai’s WWII cut. High-ish rise, very roomy top block and thigh, with a moderate taper.
S5000: Straight leg cut with a mid/low-mid rise. This has historically been one of Samurai’s more popular cuts, especially in Asia.
S211: A relatively new “Overseas Edition” cut not available in Japan. A typical “lifter’s cut” for us bigger dudes in the Western market. High rise, spacious top block, and a strong taper.
OD+SJ Comfort Tapered: Another relatively new (2018) cut designed by and exclusively sold at Okayama Denim. It’s another lifter’s cut that shares many similarities to the S211, though the rise seems to be a little lower.
The following S00x cuts are exclusive to Samurai’s Yamato denim. (See the following section for the denim details.)
S001: Slim straight cut
S002: Regular straight cut
S003: Slim cut with a moderate taper and a low rise
S004: Released in 2019, an update of the S003 with a mid-rise, a larger thigh, and slightly more taper
Denim and Models
All of Samurai’s mainline denim is in the 15-21 oz range, while some of its limited edition denim is produced at 24 and 25 oz. Samurai jean models are referred to by the letter “S,” the cut number, and the type of denim (usually two letters). For example, the S710XX jeans refer to the XX Samurai denim (see below) in the 710 cut. (If there are two jeans in the same cut in the same “model” of denim, the weight of the heavier denim is appended to the model name. For example, the 17 oz S711 cut Zero denim is the S711VX, while the 21 oz S711 cut Zero denim is the S711VX21oz. I told you that it was a little confusing.)
The Samurai (XX) and Zero (VX) Models feature gull-shaped arcs, a Levis’s-like red back pocket tab, and a patch that features Musashi and Kojiro preparing to battle. The phase of the moon on the patch is related to the silhouette of the cut. Straight-leg cuts such as the S5000 and S0510/S510 feature a full moon. The wide-cut S3000 also features the full moon. Cuts with slightly more taper, such as the S710, feature a gibbous moon. Skinnier cuts, such as the S0511, S511, and S713, feature a crescent moon. One exception appears to be the 211 “Overseas Model,” which has a different patch design. Most of the Samurai Model jeans feature buttons with a rising sun, while the Zero Model buttons typically feature two pine trees.
The Yamato and Jin models feature exaggerated Lee-like arcs and have Lee-like rounded back pockets. The patch artwork of the Yamato, Jin, and Geisha models have different patch artwork that lack the moon/silhouette connection.
The lot numbers on the patch refers to the production year. Samurai Jeans was begun in 1997, which is Lot 0. Productions from 1998 are Lot 1, and so on. This current production year (2020) is Lot 23. New and limited production models have a unique three-digit number after the lot number. If a new or limited production model contains a red tag on the back pocket, the “A” in the printed “SAMURAI” name will also be inverted.
To my knowledge, all of Samurai’s current offerings are unsanforized (usually unwashed, but that will be changing soon) and the vast majority of the denim is right-hand twill. The lone exception is the left-hand twill Jin denim. Unlike most modern jeans, Samurai’s jeans do not use polymer (or polymer-coated) stitching. This has upset some denimheads, and I’m personally not a fan of this decision for heavyweight jeans. (That said, I have not personally had any problems with Samurai’s stitching at my desk job.) But if you want to wear Samurai jeans for construction, rock-climbing, or skateboarding, you will probably need to do repairs at some point.
Samurai Model (XX)
Somewhat confusingly, the Samurai Model consists of at least four different types of denim. The 15 oz XX denim is the Otokogi denim. The Otokogi denim is made of tightly woven, short-fiber Texas cotton. It’s reportedly rather scratchy at first, and does not shrink or stretch as much as most of Samurai’s other denim. It also fades faster than most 15 oz denim, somewhat vertically like left-hand twill denim. Some of the commonly available 15 oz XX model jeans:
- S0500XX – Otokogi denim, slim straight cut
- S0510XX – Otokogi denim, straight, high-rise cut
- S0511XX – Otokogi denim, tapered, mid-rise cut. A popular jean.
- S0712XX – Otokogi denim, tapered, mid-rise cut. Reportedly a little more spacious than the S0511XX.
The 16 oz XX denim in the Oiroke denim, which is the same as the Geisha denim (discussed later). This use of 16 oz denim in the XX model is relatively new and appears to be limited to the 211 Overseas cut. These jeans feature the pine tree buttons that are used in the VX models and have a pink and silver selvedge ID. The patch is also very different than the standard XX/VX model patch. The only jean that I know of in this current model is the S211XX
(high-rise, tapered lifter’s cut).
The 19 oz XX denim is the Kiwami denim. This is a slubby, densely woven denim that stretches a good amount and has a very subtle gray hue. The Kiwami denim reportedly consists of a mixture of Texas and Australia cotton, and it’s well-known for its fast and beautiful fading
. Some of the commonly available 19 oz XX model jeans:
- S510XX19oz – Kiwami denim, straight, high-rise cut
- S511XX19oz – Kiwami denim, tapered, mid-rise cut
- S710XX – Kiwami denim, tapered, mid/high-rise cut. Probably Samurai’s most popular jean outside of Japan.
Rounding out the XX denim is the 21 oz Cho-Kiwami denim. This denim has appreciable slub (a little less than the Kiwami), is also appreciably stretchy, and also fades rather quickly. The most noticeable difference between the Cho-Kiwami and Kiwami denim, besides their weights, is that the former has a pleasant slightly light blue hue with a classic vibe. It is also probably a mixture of Texas and Australia cottons. The most commonly available 21 oz XX model is the S510XX21oz
: Cho-Kiwami denim, straight, high-rise cut.
All of the XX model jeans have a silver thread in the selvedge ID and buttons that depict a rising sun. The type of denim (Otokogi, Kiwami, Cho-Kiwami) is written on a patch on one of the pocket bags.
Zero Model (VX)
Somewhat less confusingly, the Zero Model consists of only two types of denim, each at a different weight. Oddly enough, one of these is the Cho-Kiwami denim.
The 17 oz VX denim is the Zero denim. It is perhaps the most textured denim that Samurai offers. It is a stretchy, loosely woven denim with a great deal of loom-chattery unevenness, slub, and nep. It also fades rather quickly. In that sense, it’s a very modern denim. It’s reportedly constructed of another mix of short-fibered Texas and Australia cotton. Some of the commonly available 17 oz VX model jeans:
- S211VX – Zero denim, lifter’s cut, mid/high-rise
- S711VX – Zero denim, slim straight, low rise, tight top block
- S713VX – Zero denim, very slim, low-rise cut
- S3000VX – Zero denim, WWII cut
- S5000VX – Zero denim, straight, low/mid-rise cut. A popular jean.
The 21 oz VX denim is also the Cho-Kiwami denim. As far as I can tell, it’s the same as that of the 21 oz XX model jeans. Some of the commonly available 17 oz VX model jeans:
– Cho-Kiwami denim, very slim top block, low-rise cut S5000VX21oz
– Cho-Kiwami denim, straight, low/mid-rise cut. Along with the S710XX, one of Samurai’s most popular heavyweight models. S5000VX21oz “Kanreki”
– Limited edition jean released in winter, 2020 to celebrate Nogami-san’s 60th birthday. The denim is the same as the standard S5000VX21oz, but the detailing is much different: red stitching, red buttons, proprietary patch, and tonal arcs.
Now that I’ve given you all of that information, Samurai is set to radically change the look of the XX and VX models beginning this fall. (See, I told you that this was going to be confusing.) Thanks to Levis’s legal department, the styles of these vintage-inspired jeans will no longer feature the red pocket tag, the arcs will either be tonal or stitched into the back pocket lining, and the brand name will be featured at the top of the back right pocket in red/pink lettering. See Samurai’s 2020 AW Catalog
for details. (Warning: Large PDF file! Best to download onto a proper computer. If you’re not fluent in Japanese, copy and paste the text into Google Translate.) If you want a pair of Samurai jeans in the current vintage-inspired styling, buy them now!
Yamato Model (JP)
Yamato is the former name of the island currently known as Japan, and the details of the Yamato line reflect this. The cotton threads for the Yamato models are spun in Japan. The patches, made of Japanese Waygu cow leather, feature depictions of Japanese landscapes and seascapes. While the XX and VX model patches have a cartoonish appearance, the Yamato patch artwork is more serious and refined. The 15 oz Yamato denim is also very different than the XX and VX denim. Instead of rough, short-fiber Texas or Texas/Australia cotton, the Yamato denim is spun from a long-fiber blend of 40% Pima and 60% Egyptian cotton. It’s a throwback denim: overwhelmingly flat and silky smooth, little to no slub, and a little nep here and there. It’s also not terribly stretchy and gives slow-forming vintage fades. It’s essentially the polar opposite of the 17 oz VX denim, and it reminds me a lot of Studio D’Artisan’s SD denim. The Yamato line is also more accessorized than the XX and VX models. They feature fully lined Jacquard back pockets, silver sakura rivets (I’ve read they’re red and the coated silver is supposed to wear off), and a silver and black selvedge ID. There are five Yamato models, three of which are currently in production:
- S001JP – Slim straight cut (hasn’t been in production for a couple years)
- S002 JP – Regular straight cut (hasn’t been in production for a couple years)
- S003JP – Slim cut, moderate taper, low rise
- S003JP21oz – A new model from 2019. Besides the thread weight, I’m not sure how much this 21 oz denim differs from the standard 15 oz Yamato denim.
- S004JP – Another new cut from 2019. Tapered like the S003 JP, but with a higher rise and a larger thigh/top block for us pudgy Westerners. If you like SDA’s SD-108 jeans, you’ll like these. Hopefully a 21 oz version is forthcoming.
Jin Model (XJ)
The Jin denim is 17 oz in weight and is Samurai’s only left-hand twill denim. The denim is reportedly another Texas/Australia cotton blend but, unlike those used in the XX and VX models, is reportedly smooth and not terribly slubby. The weft yarn is gray, rather than the standard natural color. I’m guessing that these fade in the typical vertical pattern that most LHT denim does. They feature half-lined back pockets, a crotch rivet, and at least some (all?) have a cinch on the back waist. Samurai has not produced these for a couple of years and hopefully that changes in 2021. Some of the Jin models previously produced include:
– Slightly slim, low/mid rise, warp yarns are a relatively light hue of indigo. S0110XJ
– Slim straight cut, low/mid rise. Also a light indigo warp. S0110XJ Blade Straight
– Similar to the S0110XJ, but with a darker warp.
Geisha model (GA)
These are Samurai’s women’s jeans, made of the 16 oz Oiroke denim. Unlike most women’s jeans, these are not stretch denim. They feature burlap, checkered pockets, the patch features a sakura and a Geisha with a fan, and the red tab on the pocket reads, “GEISHA” instead of the standard “SAMURAI.” The model naming system is different than the men’s jeans for some reason. They are relatively difficult to find and I unfortunately don’t know much else about them. Some of the Geisha models that may be floating around out there:
Black warp (BK)
This is the 17 oz Zero denim with a black warp and natural weft. S5000BK
– Slim straight cut with a low/mid rise.
Double black (NBK)
This is another rough-ish short-fiber cotton (probably a blend). Shrinks and stretches more that most of Samurai’s denim. Also fades to gray faster than most black denim.
- S211NBK – Lifter’s cut, high rise
- S511NBK – Tapered, mid-rise
- S710NBK – Tapered, mid/high-rise. Released a couple of years ago. May not return to production.
Black warp, Kakishibu weft (BTX)
This was released in the 511 cut (S511BTX
) in late 2017. The denim is 17 oz. I’m not sure if it’s going to be re-released again.
Book of Five Rings (GX)
This is a series of five 17 oz jeans of short-ish fiber cotton with colored wefts. Like most of Samurai’s fabrics, the GX denim seems to fade faster than average. This line was originally released in 2010, all in the S5000 cut. In 2019, Samurai began re-releasing them in three cuts: two S710 models, two S511 models, and one S5000 model. This collection celebrates the aforementioned Miyamoto Musashi’s book of the same title. Each of the five pairs of jeans in this collection represents one of the book’s five chapters. These are very much unlike Samurai’s more vintage-inspired models: loud weft colors, loud patches, gold selvedge ID, buttons plated with 22k gold, colorful arcs, 6 oz dyed pocket bags, and fully lined back pockets.
– Book of Earth, released fall, 2019. Tapered, mid/high-rise, kakishibu-dyed weft. S511GX-M
– Book of Water, released fall, 2019. Tapered, mid-rise, natural indigo-dyed weft. S5000GX-HII
– Book of Fire, released winter, 2020. Low/mid-rise, straight cut, red weft. S710GX-K
– Book of Wind, released spring, 2020. Tapered, mid/high-rise, green-dyed weft. S511GX-S
– Book of the Void, to be released late June, 2020. Tapered, mid-rise, gray weft
Samurai recently announced an upcoming sixth “book” model (epilogue?). The “Olympus Book, Musashi Model” (S634GX-II) is the updated version of the model that was originally released in 2010-ish. This is a relaxed cut of the same 17 oz denim as the other five models with a double indigo motif and possibly tonal arcs (or no arcs). It also features a cinch at the back waist and suspender buttons. The release date is November, 2020.
Samurai Cotton Project (SJC, JPC, J, etc.)
About a dozen years ago, the folks at Samurai decided that they wanted to make a line of jeans where all aspects of the jeans are made in Japan. So they purchased some land and learned how to grow cotton. After about four years, they had grown enough cotton for a projection of jeans. The first lot of these were outrageously expensive, about 1,000,000 yen (~USD 9,000). Because of this, they decided to produce a lot of “Half Japanese” jeans, where only the weft yarns were from their cotton farm. These retailed for 70,000 yen (~USD 650). Okayama Denim has recently sold some of Samurai’s “Half Japanese” jeans for US 775. Samurai is still producing some of “Full Japanese” jeans at a greatly reduced cost as well. I’m not sure how they achieved this, but Okayama Denim recently sold one of the 100% Japanese 20th anniversary models for $975. So these all appear to be legit-affordable for those of us in the bottom 99% now. The original model and some of the recent and semi-recent models include:
– This is the 1,000,000 yen model from 2012. This is a slim fit that has the Yamato-like arcs.
– Low/mid-rise, straight leg cut. “Half Japanese”: 17 oz international warp threads and Japan-grown weft threads. Features a mix of gold and silver buttons and an orange pocket tab.
S511SCJ 20th Anniversary
– Mid-rise, tapered cut. “Full Japanese”: 19 oz 100% Japanese-produced cotton threads with a natural indigo-dyed warp. Silver buttons and an orange pocket tab. My grail pair.
– 2020 release. Based on the slim fit of the S000JPC and has the same Yamato-style arcs. This appears to be made of 17 oz Zero denim warp yarns and Samurai’s homegrown weft yarns.
“End of the Year” jeans
At the end of each year, Samurai releases a limited edition jean that is only available at their store(s) in Japan. Details are usually on their web site. If you’re interested and are located outside of Japan, you’ll likely have to go through a Japan-based proxy service.
All of these jeans are in what’s known as the “Comfort Tapered” fit, which is proprietary to Okayama Denim. It is essentially a lifter’s cut (mid/high-rise, spacious thighs and rear, heavy taper). It appears similar to the 211 cut, though it looks like the rise is slightly lower. All of these jeans feature an array of different buttons in the fly area, the sakura rivets features on the Yamato models, and hidden back pocket arcs (the arcs are stitched into the back pocket fabric, rather than onto the surface of the pocket). The hidden arcs, most likely a work-around to fend off more Levis’s lawsuits, are incredibly cool. The arc pattern fades into the back pocket over time. I really wish that Samurai would use them on more of their models. The patches denote the collaboration by featuring two Samurai warriors crossing swords and the Okayama Denim logo (e.g., “Samurai x Okayama Denim”). There have been four collabs, three of them being denim jeans. The latter are described below.
– Released in 2018. 15 oz Otokogi denim. Features Kasuri-dyed pocket bags and fully lined back pockets (same material as the Yamato line).
– Released in Fall, 2019. 17 oz double black NBK denim. Features indigo-dyed sashiko pocket bags and fully lined back pockets made natural-colored Jacquard. The red stitching around the black patch looks really cool.
– Released in Winter, 2020. This is the same natural indigo weft 17 oz denim as the “Book of Water” model. The sakura-styled rivets on this model are black and the pocket bags are Jacquard. The fully lined back pocket bags feature a “Wagara” – a traditional Japanese-inspired design.
Naturally, all three of these models are sold out. But since they’re relatively recent, you may be able to find one on Grailed or eBay.
Denimio + Samurai “Around the World”
This collaboration, exclusive to Denimio, is basically a combination of Samurai’s fabrics, cuts, and buttons that are not normally sold (e.g, 21 oz denim in the S511 cut) with pocket bags that reflect the art of different nations. They also feature the white Denimio logo tab with the three blue lines. Releases from the past couple of years include:
S511XX21OZDM “China Edition”
– 21 oz Cho-kiwami denim in a tapered, mid-rise fit with gold “rising sun” buttons. The pocket bags feature traditional Chinese artwork.
S710XX15OZDM “Russia Edition”
– 15 oz Yamato denim in a tapered, mid/high-rise fit with the standard silver “rising sun” buttons. Pocket bags are blue and white stripes.
Denimio and Samurai had planned to release a “Europe Edition” made of 15 oz Otokogi denim (I believe it was in the S511 cut). However, this was canceled due to insufficient pre-orders.
New Stuff for Fall/Winter 2020
This is not meant to be exhaustive but, in addition to the aforementioned S634GX-II, I wanted to highlight some of Samurai’s upcoming releases. See Samurai's AW 2020 Catalog for details.
S510XX25oz-HJ – High-rise, straight leg jean in Samurai’s limited edition 25 oz denim. Special edition pocket bags (really cool artwork) and patch. Fully lined back pockets with hidden arcs, made of the same pocket bag material. These also feature light blue arcs and black pine tree buttons.
S500AX – Slim-straight cut, mid-rise. This is a new 18 oz denim that is dyed with a mixture of natural and synthetic indigo. Tonal arcs, silver buttons, and proprietary patch and pocket bags.
S520XX21oz – Relaxed tapered cut, “generous rise”, in the Cho-kiwami denim. This appears to be a new cut, though I could be wrong. Features the hidden arcs and silver “sunrise” buttons.
Where Can I Buy Samurai Jeans?
As of this writing, Denimio
is probably the international retailer with the largest inventory of Samurai gear. Okayama Denim
also has a substantial inventory.
If you’re in the U.S., Denimio and OD are likely your best options for price (especially with the recent closure of Rakuten’s Global Market). They also hem, check sizing prior to shipping upon request, and have reasonable return/refund policies.
Non-Japanese retailers include:
Check the shipping and (especially) return/refund details of each retailer before purchasing.
Samurai Jeans also has an online store
with international shipping, but the prices seem to be quite high. Noticeably higher than at the U.S.-based retailers. Still, they have a nice selection, and if you really want something that isn’t in stock elsewhere…
There may be others that I'm unaware of.
References and Sites of Interest
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